tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39321484623484860642024-03-13T04:41:11.717-04:00CAUTION: Bonds Skin InstantlyThis blog is the sister site to Artisan Studios. Here I will focus on personal projects and commission logs. I will also be keeping up to date on table top miniature and role playing genres in general, dealing with modelling, gaming, and keeping track of my hobby exploits on a semi regular basis.Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.comBlogger96125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-90396858113771616292016-08-12T18:21:00.001-04:002016-08-12T18:21:57.712-04:00Eldrad - Looking Backwards?Hey, Games Workshop, please explain this:<br />
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Why is Eldrad's sword blade edge chunky and flat? In today's age of plastic injection moulding and modern design there is absolutely no reason for this.<br />
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Is this a case of a sculptor's bad habit creeping into the digital design, or was this deliberate? If deliberate...WHY?!<br />
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This sword should look elegant from all angles, and sharp enough to split an atom, not look like a fancy two by four dressed in gold inlay and fancy filigree.<br />
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Do better!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-91037401208433479622016-03-04T00:30:00.000-05:002016-03-04T00:30:00.198-05:00Imperial Fists: Woah...That's Heavy...<span style="font-family: inherit;">Over the last few days we've been looking at my work in progress on my Imperial Fists first Tactical Squad. We've looked at the squad as a whole, the Sgt, and the Special Weapons.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">To round out this squad, I also magnetized the heavy weapon marine. This time I magnetized both arms so I could let him carry the missile launcher and the heavy bolter, which utilize different left arms.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I considered magnetizing the </span>backpack<span style="font-family: inherit;">, but opted not to for simplicity, and to give it a bit of a different look when he's got the heavy bolter.</span><br />
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Having both arms magnetized provides even greater flexibility, as I can equip the model with the cupped left hand to hold special weapons instead of heavy weapons.<br />
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Alternately, you could equip the marine with magnetized pistols and close combat weapons of any variety to create an ad hoc squad leader for times you want to select smaller 5 man teams. At this time, I've not built any other Sgt. upgrade arms to demonstrate, but will be looking at that as a future upgrade.<br />
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In the future, I'll discuss how I magnetized the miniatures to allow for greatest compatibility, and thus flexibility. Stay tuned!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-60612451802428233782016-03-03T00:30:00.000-05:002016-03-03T00:30:00.200-05:00Imperial Fists: Well, Isn't That Special!Over the last couple of days we've been looking at my new Imperial Fists Tactical Squad, work in progress. I've already mentioned that the squad has been magnetized for optimal use of the special and heavy weapons, and to give me the best bang for my buck when it comes to army selection.<br />
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Yesterday we looked at the squad Sgt, and how with a single magnetized arm, it provides a lot of diversity in terms of swapping out wargear.<br />
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Today we look at the Special Weapon toting marine.<br />
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Again, only a single magnet was installed in the torso, for the gun arm. The left arm was glued in place in a suitably pleasing pose.<br />
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Yet with only his gun arm magnetized, he can still be equipped with a large variety of guns.<br />
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Plus, even though his right arm is glued on, he can still do double duty with a heavy bolter.<br />
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Having this kind of flexibility allows for a much more diverse selection of army lists, where you can easily swap arms to create smaller five man squads with a special or heavy weapon, but not have to invest in additional miniatures or significantly more paint time, as all you have to paint are the contents of a single kit.<br />
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Next time, we'll have a look at the Heavy Weapon marine.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-32729527640575622912016-03-02T00:30:00.000-05:002016-03-02T04:15:40.321-05:00Horus Heresy Imperial Fists - The Versatile LeaderYesterday we had a look at the first tactical squad for my Imperial Fists army using the Horus Heresy Betrayal at Calth set.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4JRSXtnqik4/VtYTFi9d5KI/AAAAAAAAE38/otj-_JxCcIA/s1600/IMAG0647_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4JRSXtnqik4/VtYTFi9d5KI/AAAAAAAAE38/otj-_JxCcIA/s640/IMAG0647_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These were built entirely from a single tactical marine sprue from the HH BaC set, with the exception that I needed to scrounge a single right arm and a shoulder pad from my bits box.<br />
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The reason I needed to do that was so that I could magnetize all the special and heavy weapon options. I've yet to do any combi-weapons, as it's really small and hard to magnetize each combi-option.<br />
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One strange thing about this kit is they actually provide a few extra left arms with cupped hand, but not an equivalent number of right arms to glue guns on. It's strange because you can't use the extra left cupped hand arms, and there are not enough right arms to make a full set of pairs. They are just random left arms without a purpose. I do have a use for them, however, and have tucked them into my bits box for a future endeavour.<br />
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I mentioned magnetizing these models already, and wanted to have a closer look at the versatility of a few of the magnetized miniatures. Today we'll have a look at the Sgt., who is equipped with a powerfist and a plasma pistol.<br />
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I glued on the power fist, because Imperial Fists, so at least one Sgt will always have a powerfist. But his pistol arm is magnetized, in case I later decide to give him a different pistol, combi-bolter, or other special weapon.<br />
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With a simple single magnet in the torso, the Sgt. can have a very diverse and flexible access to a variety of weapons, ranging from pistols, to combi-weapons, and even to special weapons, as shown here.<br />
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As of writing this, I've not done any additional arms to swap pistols, or give him other options, but I eventually plan to, when I scrounge up some more right arms in the MK IV style.<br />
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Next time, we will look at magnetizing the special and heavy weapon marines. You've already had a sneak peak with the Sgt. carrying some special weapons.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-444415093117168692016-03-01T19:25:00.002-05:002016-03-01T19:27:08.730-05:00New Year, New Army! Horus Heresy Imperial FistsWell, it's March 1st, and we are well into the year, so I thought I'd at least better announce my plans for this year.<br />
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Along with other projects I have on the go, I'm going to be doing a slow burn build of an Imperial Fists army for the Forge World Horus Heresy rules. To start, I'll be building and painting a complete Horus Heresy Betrayal at Calth set. This will give me a good foundation for the army with the Commander, Chaplain, Cataphractii Terminator squad, Contemptor Dreadnought, and three Tactical squads.<br />
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So far I've built the first squad up as a Veteran Tactical Squad. I chose this configuration because it will allow me to play both 30K and 40K, and with the added flexibility of magnetization, I'll be able to field the unit with a diverse selection of options, or as a generic Tactical Squad per the Horus Heresy rules.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sgt. with power fist and plasma pistol leads his squad who tote a meltagun and heavy bolter.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The remaining squad mates provide fire support with bolters.</td></tr>
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Stay tuned for progress updates, as well as a deeper look at the interchangeable options and flexibility of the squad that comes with magnetization.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">Forge World</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-6508442851148526032015-11-03T22:10:00.001-05:002015-11-03T22:12:07.670-05:00Can't Keep a Good Necron Down!Boy time sure does fly!<br />
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Here's a quick update showing off some Necron Warriors I painted last night.<br />
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These were painted for the annual Toys for Tots Freebootaz 40K Charity Auction, where a bunch of us try to help some kids in need have a happy Christmas. If you are interested in bidding, stay tuned and I will post updates when the auctions go live, hopefully with some high resolution photos as well.<br />
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Anyway, enough with the wordy words.<br />
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<br />Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-76668362306576268552015-07-24T00:02:00.000-04:002015-11-03T22:11:56.643-05:00Throwback Thursday: Eldar Flashback<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Thursday is a salute to all things throwback. In this ongoing series, I will feature articles showcasing older hobby/game stuff for your enjoyment! This will focus on models in my collection, or old games, or even new projects with older models. Today, we take a quick look at some original Rogue Trader Eldar!</i><br />
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These are the original Eldar models from Rogue Trader Warhammer 40,000.<br />
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I picked these up as soon as they were released way back in the late 80s, and painted them up in the Eldar Pirates colours from the Rogue Trader Book, minus the tiger stripes. They later became Alaitoc colours, which became the basis for my long term Eldar army.<br />
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Since then I've painted and sold two armies of Eldar, but have kept the original unit, plus a bunch of the old Rogue Trader models, as well as the 2nd Edition metal models with plastic arms. The plan is to use them as a foundation for a Void Dragons Corsairs army, allied to my Alaitoc army, as the esoteric weapon style, and weapon combinations work well with the Corsairs list from the <i>Imperial Armour Volume 11: Doom of Mymeara.</i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">Forge World</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-64336333826864521772015-07-02T00:01:00.000-04:002015-07-02T15:23:57.396-04:00Throwback Thursday - The Redemption Returns<i style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Thursday is a salute to all things throwback. In this ongoing series, I will feature articles showcasing older hobby/game stuff for your enjoyment! This will focus on models in my collection, or old games, or even new projects with older models. This week the Necromunda Redemptionists return with a lick of paint!</i><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">In our previous <a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2015/06/thursday-redemption.html" target="_blank">Throwback Thursday - The Redemption</a> we had a look at my new Redemption gang for the Necromunda campaign some friends and I are playing.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">So far we've had a bevvy of fun games, with the previous session results at the end of the day being one of my gangers (a Deacon) was captured. The gang itself has made quite a name for itself, cleansing the heretic and impure with redeeming flames, and have had a few lucky rolls on the equipment and search tables.</span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">On top of that, there has also been some painting going on. Now my group prefers to play with painted miniatures, but we always allow people to play with unfinished miniatures that are works in progress, which is the case with these.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">I've been quite busy over the last little while, with little real time to paint, so unfortunately I get it in where I can, in fits and spurts. One such evening resulted in me getting the models primed, base coated, and the first general blending of colours, as can be seen here.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of WIP shots because time was short and I just wanted to get some painting done. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">First I fully primed the whole gang using Vallejo Surface Primer Black with my airbrush. Once that was dry, I went back and did some preshading, by applying Vallejo Surface Primer Grey over the models. I used the zenithal highlighting technique, which left a nice gradation of light to dark in the shadow areas with a nice bright light grey in the highlight areas.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">After that was fully dry (which doesn't take long when airbrushing) I started adding colours. I began by laying down a thin coat of Minitaire Red on the whole of the models. By keeping it thin, the shadows were retained, and the miniatures kept a natural looking highlight. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">I then followed this up with Miniataire Yellow, which I sprayed in a downward line, keeping the colour mostly on the bottoms of the robes. I wasn't worried about overspray as that will be corrected by hand later. I also used the yellow to add a touch of colour in the highlights. Again this was done by spraying downward on the highest points where the light would fall, in the zenithal fashion. </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Finally, to blend the colours, I went over the reds with the Minitaire Ghost Tint Red. This softened the sharper yellow highlights and colour shifted them into the orange and red. I also used it to soften the edge of the harder yellow and red transition on the lower robes, to give it a more fiery glow.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nH7moJNewek/VYywsduvq7I/AAAAAAAACwY/LIcj7x_5YjE/s1600/2015-06-13%2B02.25.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nH7moJNewek/VYywsduvq7I/AAAAAAAACwY/LIcj7x_5YjE/s640/2015-06-13%2B02.25.46.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">When painting the miniatures, to make handling them easier, they are taped onto the tops of screw on caps for medicine bottles. This gives me something to hold on to so I don't mar the wet paint. It also gives the model a more stable surface so they don't fall over if I jostle the table.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PasRxgUWHF4/VYywsVI7aAI/AAAAAAAACwY/YFTTP9uqfOY/s1600/2015-06-13%2B02.28.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PasRxgUWHF4/VYywsVI7aAI/AAAAAAAACwY/YFTTP9uqfOY/s640/2015-06-13%2B02.28.34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Here you can see a bit of the blend between the red and the yellow, and some of the natural shading. By using a tint, as described earlier, you can make darker/black areas take on a complimentary hue to the base and highlight colours without looking like it's just black underneath.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;">Stay tuned! There's more to come next time!</span></span><br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Related:</b><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2015/06/thursday-redemption.html" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18.2000007629395px;" target="_blank">Throwback Thursday - The Redemption</a><br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-53063075186792035992015-06-25T22:44:00.001-04:002015-06-25T22:59:38.739-04:00Throwback Thursday - The Redemption!<i>Thursday is a salute to all things throwback, so I thought I would begin feature articles showcasing older hobby/game stuff for your enjoyment! This will focus on models in my collection, or old games, or even new projects with older models. This week we have a treat in the form of Necromunda Redemptionists!</i><br />
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Towards the end of last year, we were wrapping up a year long 40K campaign, and one of the players had enjoyed it so much that he wanted to do another campaign that he would run, in the Hive City of Necromunda!<br />
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This appealed to the group for many reasons. Partly it allowed us to change up our hobby and painting. When you paint larger armies for big game systems, it's very easy to get in a rut and then just churn your gears trying to get inspired to keep painting the same types of models. Playing the same game all the time can have the same problem. This was a great avenue for refreshing ourselves in terms of inspiration to model and paint, as well as to just have a bunch of smaller games with some small skirmish units. The added complexity of continuing campaign scenarios, experience, growing wealth, and skills to attract more members to our gangs just makes it that much more appealing.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6pCOW8XY3yU/VYy16az2ZMI/AAAAAAAACxc/Ez-toYvsOSs/s1600/Redemptionist%2BBox%2BArt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6pCOW8XY3yU/VYy16az2ZMI/AAAAAAAACxc/Ez-toYvsOSs/s320/Redemptionist%2BBox%2BArt.JPG" width="320" /></a>I decided that I would take this campaign as an opportunity to dust off and paint up some older models that I haven't gotten around to before. In this case, my Redemption Crusade. I bought these models for an aborted campaign my friends and I were planning on playing in the heyday of Necromunda, when we were staff, but for many reasons (probably new shiny syndrome with a fresh new edition of 40K) it never happened. I kept the gang promising that one day I'll get to them. And that is now!<br />
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Normally, when people devise a gang for Necromunda, they start by picking their gangers, selecting their gear, and then building the models to represent them. Instead, I chose to build a gang around the basic Redemptionist set. I had those specific models, so why not use them as is. It would reduce the conversions necessary to field them, and allow me to just get stuck in with painting...<br />
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However, I couldn't bring myself to not do something special with them, so I decided that I would dress up their bases a little bit with some scrap bits of sprue, wire, and plasticard to make it looke like the detritus of the underhive.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--nX0kkJ4m4I/VYywsZP5CLI/AAAAAAAACwY/2hSqs0hx-Ec/s1600/2015-05-02%2B05.28.20-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--nX0kkJ4m4I/VYywsZP5CLI/AAAAAAAACwY/2hSqs0hx-Ec/s640/2015-05-02%2B05.28.20-3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here you can see with the simple addition of some plain plasticard, you can add texture to a plain base to make it look like it's made of metal plating, or scrap metal lying about. I also added debris texture using some Liquitex White Opaque Flakes, and Liquitex Resin Sand. When mixed, this gives the impression of piles of trash, rust, and accumulated dirt.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAnScxqo-no/VYywsUgL4SI/AAAAAAAACwY/0chVBuMPIN8/s1600/2015-05-02%2B05.31.43-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RAnScxqo-no/VYywsUgL4SI/AAAAAAAACwY/0chVBuMPIN8/s640/2015-05-02%2B05.31.43-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another trick I used to make the preacher stand out was to raise him slightly on the base. To do this I took some odd sprue out of my old sprue bin, and chopped off a corner. I glued it down, then added some more sprue and a plasticard plate on top to make it look like a sidewalk and curb. By carving out chunks, and lines, you can give it the impression of old damaged concrete or metal.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zJITZqlBu8/VYywsbBp0LI/AAAAAAAACwY/hT0zqsiXpT8/s1600/2015-05-02%2B05.33.01-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="328" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zJITZqlBu8/VYywsbBp0LI/AAAAAAAACwY/hT0zqsiXpT8/s640/2015-05-02%2B05.33.01-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On the back of the base, to give it more visual interest, I drilled some cross holes to make it look like a prefab type of concrete, with some conduit and rebar simulated by some solid copper wire. Elsewhere, I have used cut up sprue that has been drilled out to make it look like clay fired bricks, and used it as scatter to add more texture.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sYsxOOia2Lk/VYywsfeJfrI/AAAAAAAACwY/fwD1xr93d6c/s1600/2015-05-02%2B05.34.45-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sYsxOOia2Lk/VYywsfeJfrI/AAAAAAAACwY/fwD1xr93d6c/s640/2015-05-02%2B05.34.45-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Another visual touch that gives these crusaders the appearance that they are missionaries in the underhive was to add a vertically standing sprue with some wire sticking out of the end to make it look like a broken concrete support column.<br />
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This rounded out the miniatures quite nicely as it places them within the underhive in a convincing manner, with some very inexpensive materials, and an hour or so of work.<br />
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Thats it for today's throwback. Next time you should see these with a bit of paint on them!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-18931114912223892532015-04-18T17:35:00.001-04:002016-03-01T19:28:00.346-05:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 9: Raining Cows!Hi, everybody. It's been a while since you saw an update on my Minotaurs. Due to time constraints and other circumstances, I shifted gears from that as a full time project, and it's now a side project that I'm working on in dribs and drabs. Even so, I haven't done anything with it in months. Until this week, that is.<br />
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Some time during the summer of 2014' a friend and I did a trade, out of which I received a pretty rough Forgeworld Dreadnought Drop Pod. It was in pretty bad shape having been assembled and disassembled, because of how bad the casting was, and poor fitting parts. But I knew with pinning, bending, and extra plasticard I could get it back up to snuff, so took it off his hands, to his relief.<br />
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There were two major issues with it. The first being the fins are too thin, resulting in 2-3 mm clearance in mounting the slots. I fixed this by shimming the fins with plasticard, which gave a nice solid gluing surface, and made the structure much more rigid. I also pinned all the joints to ensure extra strength, which really helped. This worked well, and the only issue that remains as a result is a tell tale gap when the doors are closed.<br />
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The second issue was that the floor plate was too thin. This was clearly a result of it going concave when it was casted due to too little resin being used, then the lip being sanded down too much by ForgeWorld to make it flat. This is what frustrated my friend as he complained about the doors not working when it was glued together. This was because there wasn't enough room in the hinge openings, causing the doors to physically bind. It also forced the doors upward by 3mm, leaving an unsightly gap at the bottom.<br />
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I fixed this by building up the thickness of the floor plate bottom using some 3mm thick sprue, which I carved and shaped to match the corners of the floor plate. The angle of the sprue sides was also a decent match for the taper of the floor. Finally, as part of the original owner's build attempts (I'm the third owner), the thruster base plate had been roughly carved/gouged in an attempt to make clearance for the hinges, but that didn't work, and made things worse due to poor fit and alignment. I hid that damage by running a band of plasticard around the top of the base, on the door sides. This squared up the edges and gave a better glue surface and alignment.<br />
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As as a result of these, and after about four hours of work I now have a pretty solid Dreadnought Drop Pod. The doors sit flush on the floor, and open and close easily.<br />
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The only issue now is the gap, which won't matter much when the doors are open.... Though I am considering fixing the gaps by adding plasticard, it really will have a declining rate of return, so probably won't bother. There are still a couple of blemishes that need cleaning and filling, and the main thruster needs to be heated and made round, but otherwise I am happy with the build, as I've always wanted one!<br />
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I didn't take any WIP shots ( I was too into it, and find interrupting for progress photos kills my progress), but here are some pics of it assembled.<br />
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Here it is with the doors closed. The door seals are visible due to the gap.<br />
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Directly below the door, you can see the strip of plasticard I used to hide the carved section, and rebuild the thruster plate. You can also see the grey plastic sprue I used on the bottom of the floor plate to give the door the correct clearance to open/close, and sit flush on the floor.<br />
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<b>Top Tip:</b> <i>The empty Coke Zero bottle is a toy for my dog when he bugs me while I'm working on something delicate (especially to distract him from stealing my project - true story). For some reason empty plastic bottles are his favourite toy ever.</i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MNl3J9amH9g/VTLFJ9tXnJI/AAAAAAAACuQ/fXBFVQLm-Uw/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.45.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MNl3J9amH9g/VTLFJ9tXnJI/AAAAAAAACuQ/fXBFVQLm-Uw/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.45.10.jpg" width="362" /></a></div>
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The doors all open and close nice and smoothly. You can see the gaps in this picture easily. Those doors are fully shut. Lots of work to fill if I decide to do it, as I'll either need to fill the gaps with plasticard, then add new sliding bolt detail, or use green stuff and sculpt in the detail. I could cheat it, and just put the plasticard on the front of the door to hide the gaps, but if I am going to do it, I want to do it to as high a standard as I can.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hxjnValHBLs/VTLFJnn0ktI/AAAAAAAACuI/SVW1eBWL8o0/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.45.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hxjnValHBLs/VTLFJnn0ktI/AAAAAAAACuI/SVW1eBWL8o0/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.45.30.jpg" width="362" /></a></div>
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<b>Top Tip:</b> <i>Keep shrink wrap from your packages (pictured in background). You can use it to blot up excess super glue, or to clean the tip of your superglue bottle.</i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L57tPQEH3cM/VTLFJvvBK-I/AAAAAAAACuM/t73lpgfCvLI/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.44.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L57tPQEH3cM/VTLFJvvBK-I/AAAAAAAACuM/t73lpgfCvLI/s1600/2015-04-17%2B03.44.46.jpg" width="362" /></a></div>
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Finally, this picture shows all the doors deployed. You can see in this picture, the door gaps are irrelevant with the petals open.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">ForgeWorld</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-82826276387924567892015-01-21T17:56:00.002-05:002015-01-21T17:57:23.190-05:00Freebootaz 2014 Toys For Tots Charity Auction ResultsWell, another Freebootaz Charity Auction for the Toys for Tots is wrapped up and the results are really great!<br />
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The total raised in auction are approaching about $1750 for the combined auctions, all proceeds of which will be sent to Toys for Tots.<br />
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I'd like to thank all of you for viewing, supporting, and spreading the word on these auctions, or bidding if you have bid.<br />
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I'd also like to thank the Freebootaz forum for once again putting together some great projects for a worthy cause. It's become quite a tradition, and starts early in the year, with planning, assigning project leaders, building teams, selecting project themes, collecting materials, building, painting, and all the other hard work that goes into completing these projects.<br />
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The Freebootaz are once again starting a new Toys For Tots Charity Auction project for 2015, and there promises to be some great new armies for auction at the end of 2015. One of the things we are hoping to do this year is to have a front page where you can see work in progress, and follow along with regular news of the projects.<br />
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If you want to further support this endeavour, you can join the Freebootaz Forum at the link below. There's an annual fee, but the benefits can be worth it. If you can't join, but want to contribute, you can still do so. Just contact one of the moderators at the Forum and let them know you want to help. Alternately, you can also make donations directly to Toys for Tots, also linked below.<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Da-Big-Red-Stompa-/111562341807?" target="_blank">Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Crimson-Fists-Warhammer-40-000-/331438308525?">Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<br />Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-177123480077812622015-01-06T03:37:00.001-05:002015-01-06T03:37:12.619-05:00Freebootaz 2014 Toys for Tots Charity Auction - Crimson Fists<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Crimson-Fists-Warhammer-40-000-/331438308525?">The final Freebootaz Charity Auction</a> for 2014 has been listed! This time for a Crimson Fists army for Warhammer 40,000.<br />
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All proceeds will go to the Toys for Tots!<br />
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This army was constructed and painted from donated materials as a joint effort by some stalwart volunteers from the 40K Radio Freebootaz Forum, including myself. I've taken photos of the army on my display board (NOT INCLUDED IN THE AUCTION)<br />
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This army can be taken as a 1500 point unbound army, with select wargear. It will make a great starter army for somebody looking to get into Space Marines, or Crimson Fists. Or will make an excellent add on detachment for any existing Space Marine Army or other army as allies...<br />
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Army Build is as follows: Unbound!<br />
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<b>HQ</b><br />
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<ul>
<li>Captain ( or Chapter Master) </li>
<li>Anniversary Edition Standard Bearer</li>
</ul>
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<b>ELITE </b><br />
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<ul>
<li>Venerable Dreadnought with Assault Cannon and Close combat arm. With Drop Pod, </li>
<li>Dreadnought with Missile Launcher and Las Cannon </li>
<li>10 Man Sternguard Squad with all weapon options available</li>
<li>5 Man Terminator Squad (6 models) with the option of an Assault Cannon or Cyclone Missile Launcher</li>
</ul>
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<b>TROOPS</b><br />
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<ul>
<li>10 Man Tactical Squad with a Power Fist, Grav-Gun and Missile launcher with Rhino</li>
<li>10 Man Tactical Squad with Flamer and Missile Launcher. </li>
</ul>
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This auction also includes a set of special custom laser cut and engraved templates in blue acrylic, as well as the remainder of the Forge World Brass Etch which wasn't used, so that the winner can continue adding models to this army.<br />
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See the whole army in the following picture spread, and please go check out the auction. Bid with your heart, and please spread the word on this auction to help get as many people bidding as possible.<br />
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Captain and Standard Bearer take centre stage!<br />
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Two tactical squads and a Rhino give this army a solid anchor for holding objectives.<br />
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Terminators with deep strike will be able to home in on the drop pod, or any Sergeants carrying teleport homers. There are 6 models, so that you can choose to use the squad with either missile launcher, or assault cannon.<br />
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Two dreadnoughts will give some solid mobile firepower, and with a drop pod, will have some great flexibility in terms of deployment.<br />
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While modelled for use as a Dreadnought Drop Pod, this could also be used for dropping in the Sternguard or Tactical Squad to keep your tactical options open!<br />
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Following are pictures of the whole army without display board, and unit specific photos to show them in better detail.<br />
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This tactical squad with Rhino has matching gun and trim colours.<br />
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The Rhino has Forgeworld resin and brass etch detail.<br />
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The dozer blade is magnetized so you can use the Rhino either way, and the hatches are not glued on, so you can position them either side.<br />
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The drop pod has two weapon options magnetized. It's also got opening doors.<br />
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The dreadnoughts have had a flourish of Crimson Fists detail added to them, and the weapons have been magnetized, so you can mix and match the choices.<br />
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The captain has some brass etch detailing added.<br />
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25th Anniversary Edition Standard Bearer.<br />
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Tactical squad on foot, with flamer and missile launcher.<br />
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Sternguard Squad, with magnetized weapon for maximum flexibility, can also be used as Command Squad or Honour Guard, especially if used with the BSB, making it a proper Battle Forged CAD army.<br />
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These are all the weapon options included with the Sternguard. They all fit at least one model, though not all guns will fit all models, due to the poses and weapon stocks.<br />
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And the final touch, the custom templates. The acrylic is a crystal clear blue. The paper has been left on the acrylic to protect them from scratches.<br />
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Hopefully you've enjoyed this picture spread. Please go bid, and share this auction to get as many people bidding as possible!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Da-Big-Red-Stompa-/111562341807?" target="_blank">Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Crimson-Fists-Warhammer-40-000-/331438308525?">Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-33181699677273620792015-01-01T14:59:00.001-05:002015-01-01T15:00:18.946-05:00Freebootaz 2014 Toys for Tots Charity Auction - Da Big Red Stompa! Ready for another Freebootaz Charity Auction?<br />
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<a href="http://ready%20for%20another%20freebootaz%20toys%20for%20tots%20charity%20auction/?%20%20%20%20This%20third%20auction%20is%20for%20a%20Dreamforge%20Leviathan,%20which%20could%20be%20used%20as%20a%20Knight%20Titan%20for%20Games%20Workshop%27s%20Warhammer%2040,000!" target="_blank">This is the fourth auction, for a Games Workshop Ork Stompa</a> as part of our continuing support of the Toys for Tots auction series for 2014.<br />
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This massive model was constructed in conjunction with Da Ork Dynasty, see link below. Lots of attention to detail was lavished on this model for the discerning Ork player.<br />
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Piloted by a Big Mekk with penchant for loud and fast, the head is festooned with massive speakers on the totem, as well as big "Krome Smoke Pipes"!<br />
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Naturally, it's got a red paint job to Go Fasta! And it is covered in rokkits for some long range firepower.<br />
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It's got a big old brass and silver belly plate buckle....<br />
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And a cooler to keep all sorts of orky beverages cool, most likely a Squig Brew or two.<br />
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Tunes are covered by a Grot, who spins discs even in the most explosive situations. In fact, that's the best time to play some loud raucous music.<br />
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It disassembles for packing convenience.<br />
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And of course, it's massive girth hides within it a sound system so you can play whatever jammy tunes you want while the Stompa smashes through buildings and stomps on the puny things before it.<br />
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Please support this worthy cause by visiting the auction and either bidding, or sharing this post to help get more people to visit and hopefully buy a cool toy in support for a worthy cause!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Da-Big-Red-Stompa-/111562341807?" target="_blank">Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-47122783184408174512014-12-29T16:32:00.001-05:002015-01-01T15:00:09.503-05:00Freebootaz Toys for Tots Charity Auction - Dreamforge LeviathanReady for another Freebootaz <a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a> Charity Auction?<br />
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">This third auction is for a Dreamforge Leviathan</a>, which could be used as a Knight Titan for Games Workshop's Warhammer 40,000!<br />
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Useable as an ally for any Imperial Aligned force, it could also be used by other armies in the game using the Allies rules, and uneasy allies/come the apocalypse rules.<br />
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The Leviathan stands approximately 8.5" tall, and would make a fantastic centrepiece for most 40K collections, or sit proudly in your display cabinet.<br />
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With battle cannon and the alternative design massive power sword, it will ensure most opponents tread with care around this monster of a machine.<br />
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This model is equipped with the more modern looking reactor upgrade.<br />
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Two cannon options will give you versatility in the field, and can be equipped to be the most suitable counter for whatever type of army that faces off against this giant robot.<br />
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Here you can see the Leviathan posed with its alternative cannon.<br />
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The artist has also done a touch of freehand on the shield.<br />
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Check it out now for your chance to bid and support this worth while charity!<br />
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Also watch for two more auctions, coming soon!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-4-Da-Big-Red-Stompa-/111562341807?" target="_blank">Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<a href="http://dreamforge-games.com/" target="_blank">Dreamforge Games</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-90508540443353544142014-12-29T16:02:00.001-05:002014-12-29T16:17:47.537-05:00Freebootaz Toys For Tots Charity Auction - 2014 "Tau Empire"The next Freebootaz <a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a> Charity Auction is live!<br />
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This time for a lovely Tau Empire army! <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Toys for Tots Tau Empire Auction</a><br />
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With plenty of Crisis Suits, a Broadside and a Riptide, this will easily suit the Farsight theme.<br />
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Take pride of this beautiful centrepiece model, a Riptide which features lighting effects, and a custom cut hex shield that lights up to simulate the models shield!<br />
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Stealth Suits will help prevent infiltrators from getting too close to your zone, with strategic placement.<br />
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Firewarriors will keep opposing forces at bay with their long range rifles.<br />
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So that the Crisis Suits can respond with pinpoint accuracy to immediate threats!<br />
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Kroot, can help secure flanks and are a boon on forested boards.<br />
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A Devilfish will help transport the Firewarriors for fast redeployment if the lines shift.<br />
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And a Tau Fighter for aerial superiority, to control the skies when there are no enemy fliers, and rain down pinpoint fire on ground targets, or to intercept opposing fliers to protect the Tau assets.<br />
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And of course, lots of drones, for shielding, marker lights, and support fire!<br />
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This lovely army would make an excellent starting point for a new Tau player, or be an excellent way to expand an already existing army!<br />
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Check it out now for your chance to bid and support this worth while charity!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-38551477496475518192014-12-18T19:32:00.000-05:002014-12-29T16:07:48.531-05:00Freebootaz Toys For Tots Charity Auction - 2014 "Da Ork Dynasty"The 40K Radio Freebootaz are at it again!<br />
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This year they've put together multiple auctions for the <a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a> charity.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">The first auction</a> is for a nice 40K Ork Army with a Good Old Boy/Duck Dynasty theme.<br />
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Included are several unique vehicles. The first is in the form of a monster truck.<br />
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There's a HMV style trukk<br />
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And finally the "Genrul Lee"<br />
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Let's not forget to mention some wacky conversions of Orks with beard squiqs!<br />
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And finally, the set is rounded off with a custom set of templates!<br />
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There are even more pictures of the army to peruse at the auction link, posted above and below.<br />
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This is the first of several armies being auctioned for this worthy charity.<br />
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If you like this army, please go bid with confidence, knowing the proceeds from the winning bid will go to help kids in need.<br />
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If Orks are not your flavour of 40K, watch this space for the other auctions, which will include a Tau army, a Crimson Fists army, and some super heavy titan goodness!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Auction Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-1-Da-Ork-Dynasty-/111547715864" target="_blank">Da Ork Dynasty Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-2-Tau-Farsight-Enclave-/111556308538?" target="_blank">Tau Empire Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/40k-Radio-Freebootas-Charity-army-3-Levithan-Crusader-Knight-/111556327271?" target="_blank">Dreamforge Leviathan Toys for Tots Auction</a><br />
Crimson Fists Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
Ork Stompa (With Sound System) Toys for Tots Auction (Coming Soon)<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">Toys for Tots</a><br />
<a href="http://www.thefreebootaz.com/forum/forum.php" target="_blank">The Freebootaz</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-2549943156311069892014-10-31T14:42:00.000-04:002014-10-31T14:48:00.418-04:00Build an Army Display Tray - Part 3: Painting<i>Welcome back to the Build an Army Display Tray series. In Part 1 of this series I discussed the basic assembly of a solid display board. In Part 2 I showed you how I built up the scenic portion of the display board to give it a convincing and thematic effect. In this part, I discuss how I painted the board with some basic quick techniques to give a simple yet convincing look which will frame my army nicely.</i><br />
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And the painting has begun! All the paints used for painting, unless otherwise noted, were craft paints that you can buy at your local discount or art store.<br />
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I first primed the whole board using a generous coat of black craft paint. I forgot to take a picture of the black primer coat... But here's a picture with the starting base coat of brown. This was applied while the primer coat was still damp, to help mottle and blend it. I used a 2" stiff bristled paint brush, also from the discount store. The bristles are the cheap plastic kind, but work just fine for this sort of application.<br />
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Notice the stone on the fist emblem is tinted reddish... I used a scab red colour to tint the chapter symbol.<br />
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After the base coat of brown mixed with black was dry, I gave everything a dry brush with brown. Then lightened it up a bit with a tan colour mixed equally with brown. Then again with a pure tan. I kept the stone work darker and the earth lighter, to give it a nice contrast and not to have the stone work appear chalky.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4B-8T5Z-9So/U9bV9rjxCAI/AAAAAAAACOI/DSW10GGgaMM/s1600/2014-07-25%2B09.40.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4B-8T5Z-9So/U9bV9rjxCAI/AAAAAAAACOI/DSW10GGgaMM/s1600/2014-07-25%2B09.40.02.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next I painted all the stone work a blue-grey colour, leaving the brown showing in the recesses to give it depth and shadow. This also gives the stone more weight and makes it feel more natural, as stone generally has many colours within it. Notice you can see the Crimson Fist logo tint is actually showing through, even though I did this early stage and dry brushed over with the blue-grey.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zDPORuT7eTg/U9bV_s-k4wI/AAAAAAAACOU/Ucx4EnueMj4/s1600/2014-07-25%2B10.02.53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zDPORuT7eTg/U9bV_s-k4wI/AAAAAAAACOU/Ucx4EnueMj4/s1600/2014-07-25%2B10.02.53.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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I added the same tan colour to the grey to lighten it, and gave all the stone another highlight. I hit spot areas on the craters and the rubble on the earth as well. At this point I reinforced the tint of the Crimson Fists badge using light washes. I also applied liberal amounts of black and brown wash to reinforce scorches and depth and shadow, and to tone down areas that I thought were coming up too bright. This is a display board, so I don't want it to be too bright, or it will detract from the army.<br />
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Finally, I gave everything a very light highlight by dry brushing egg-shell over everything. This unifies the hues of the board and anchors the stone into the earth by making it all have a similar dusty highlight.<br />
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I decided not to add static grass for now as I wanted to keep it a bit darker, and keep the display look less busy. My army does have tufts of static grass on it here and there, but it should look just fine as the rest of the colours are matching.<br />
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I finished off by painting the doors in a dark bronze from Vallejo paints, highlighted with brass, then gave it a wash of GW's new technical Oxide paint. I then gave it another hit of the bronze and brass, and finally stippled it and the wall behind it with black char effects, to look like it had been blown off from the inside out.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ7rshNVFy4/U9bWBb60MmI/AAAAAAAACOw/a_cLQ50rwIY/s1600/2014-07-25%2B12.40.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ7rshNVFy4/U9bWBb60MmI/AAAAAAAACOw/a_cLQ50rwIY/s1600/2014-07-25%2B12.40.31.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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With everything dry, the last thing to do was clean up the wooden edge with black paint, then mount the frame, and call it finished!<br />
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I'm very happy with how it turned out and glad I decided to do this, instead of my usual artwork under glass that I'm known for. I think everybody was surprised to see me ditch that in favour of this custom display carrying tray! It was well worth the effort, and surprisingly only took a couple of evenings to complete.<br />
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<span style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Related:</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-1-assembly.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display - Part 1: Assembly</a><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-2-terrain.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display - Part 2: Terrain Construction</a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-69126994079308442282014-10-26T16:49:00.005-04:002014-10-31T14:46:22.175-04:00Build an Army Display Tray - Part 2: Terrain Construction<i>In Part 1: Assembly, I discussed my need for a new army display tray for my Crimson Fists army, and began walking through how I built the foundation for the tray using a simple frame, and wood painting board for the base.</i><br />
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<i>In Part 2: Terrain Construction, I detail how I built up the scenic terrain for the board, to tell a mini story about my army of choice, The Crimson Fists.</i><br />
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First, I put together a concept design. This helps give you a feeling of spacing, as well as to decide on thematic elements. I chose a strong thematic vignette, based on the background of the Crimson Fists, as first introduced in the Warhammer 40,000: Rogue Trader book, detailing the destruction of their citadel during a massive greenskin attack. To portray that story element, I designed a simple board depicting some sort of ruined shrine or Imperial structure. The focal point of this was the Crimson Fists logo, inlaid into the heavy stone walk way, in front of the destroyed entry, with craters, and ruined walls depicting the destruction. This could represent a detachment of the Crimson Fists finding an outpost, in search of lost STCs, or returning to the Citadel in order to defend and reclaim it, etc.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHlC7JjfNDw/VEn39dVccYI/AAAAAAAACZM/nqhJW1MGmCU/s1600/Display%2BTray%2BConcept.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHlC7JjfNDw/VEn39dVccYI/AAAAAAAACZM/nqhJW1MGmCU/s1600/Display%2BTray%2BConcept.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once I had the basics of the design concept fleshed out, and the narrative set, it was time to lay it out on the actual display board. I outlined the feature locations on the board. I took some plastic Games Workshop craters and located them roughly where I wanted them to be, based on the concept sketch, then traced around them with a marker.<br />
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Then I drew up the details on some 1/2" thick pink Styrofoam insulation board. I cut the details into the board with a sharp hobby knife, textured it by pressing on it with a rough stone, and laid out how the crater and ruined walls will be located. I then removed the stone blocks where the crater will sit, so I can give it a 3D effect. These would be textured and glued back down around the craters, and throughout the ruins and ground to give the appearance that the explosion blew the pieces upward and outward.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bj4Sqt0Wp4A/U9bV22yfpsI/AAAAAAAACNE/NH5vnM0CKJg/s1600/2014-07-23%2B00.26.45.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bj4Sqt0Wp4A/U9bV22yfpsI/AAAAAAAACNE/NH5vnM0CKJg/s1600/2014-07-23%2B00.26.45.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, I glued the foam insulation board and single crater down. I built up the level of the double crater to give it support, using a "stone clay" product I got from Michael's. This stuff is awesome to use. It's super soft, and easy to work with. It seems to dry quickly, and can be carved after it's dry. It can also be tinted or painted.<br />
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I then built up the flat board where the dirt/grass will be and gave it undulating form, then textured that with a rough stone, and a crinkly plastic bag. I pressed these items into the clay to give it a rough dirt like appearance. I also built up more clay around the single crater, to hide the lip. Then glued in the double crater, which I had to do last so that I could give it support, since it was partly on a raised surface.<br />
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When that was dry, I added more clay around it to hide the lip and blend it in better.<br />
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I then glued on the large stones around the craters and scattered around to give it a ruined appearance.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vwPWLQUENOE/U9bV4yUCKEI/AAAAAAAACNY/S7jst5TWhDw/s1600/2014-07-23%2B20.19.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vwPWLQUENOE/U9bV4yUCKEI/AAAAAAAACNY/S7jst5TWhDw/s1600/2014-07-23%2B20.19.24.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, I glued on some plastic ruined wall sections from the Games Workshop Cities of Death terrain, as well as some of the older gothic ruins that Games Workshop used to sell back in the years of 3rd and 4th edition 40K. Note that I decided to change the position of the walls as I wanted it to appear they were breached with shelling, as well as to give more variety in where I could place miniatures for dramatic effect.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rZz7U07Vhv0/U9bV52IMNGI/AAAAAAAACNw/FCnocD19fvM/s1600/2014-07-23%2B23.38.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rZz7U07Vhv0/U9bV52IMNGI/AAAAAAAACNw/FCnocD19fvM/s1600/2014-07-23%2B23.38.51.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, I textured the ruins with mixed course ballast and sand, which was glued on with PVA glue.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BV24SFmHVAQ/U9bV6tZSIRI/AAAAAAAACNs/2JyT85v-eGw/s1600/2014-07-24%2B00.31.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BV24SFmHVAQ/U9bV6tZSIRI/AAAAAAAACNs/2JyT85v-eGw/s1600/2014-07-24%2B00.31.35.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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After the ruins were completely dry, I added a sand and rubble texture to the display base. This was a mix of the course sand and plastic sprue rubble. I then gave it several light misting sprays of a PVA water mixture to encourage everything to stick together, and brushed on pure PVA onto the foam to give it a more durable surface for painting.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Uelnw4l_iA/U9bV66YBWnI/AAAAAAAACN0/b5oNGIzqGr0/s1600/2014-07-24%2B14.56.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Uelnw4l_iA/U9bV66YBWnI/AAAAAAAACN0/b5oNGIzqGr0/s1600/2014-07-24%2B14.56.34.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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This was then left to cure overnight.<br />
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Stay tuned for Part 3: Painting!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><span id="goog_555470772"></span><span id="goog_555470773"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a>Related:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-1-assembly.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display Tray - Part 1: Assembly</a><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-3-painting.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display Tray - Part 3: Painting</a><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-35045901854904014122014-10-24T02:26:00.003-04:002014-10-31T14:45:17.586-04:00Build an Army Display Tray - Part 1: AssemblyBack in June, I was working on my Minotaurs Space Marines army in the hopes I could complete and play with it at the Astronomi-Con Toronto 2014 tournament. Unfortunately, life has a way of interfering with plans, and I quickly ran out of time to paint the army to the level I want. At the beginning of July, with only a few short weeks to go, and an army only about 20% complete, I shifted gears and decided to bring one of my existing armies, The Crimson Fists. I'd recently added a couple of new units to the collection, and wanted to field them. I also wanted to do a nice new presentation tray for the army so they stood out and would look fantastic on display.<br />
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Over the years I've made many display trays, and find the ones I like best are usually made from large picture frames for 18" x 24" portraits. I then stick some army related artwork, or the army list, or other some such inside the tray, and replace the backer board with a black foam core and a light piece of plywood.<br />
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This lends itself well to a simple yet highly professional looking tray, on the cheap, and quickly. However, I didn't want to take my old tray and repurpose it, because I still use it a lot for another army and wanted to preserve that, so I decided to make a brand new tray.<br />
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I also decided to take my original design, and improve upon it.<br />
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One thing about my older tray design is that, because it was a very simple re-purpose of the picture frame, I had to be careful not to overload it, for several reasons. The first being the glazing points on the back of the frame used to hold the bottom on are not meant to be load bearing, so when moving the tray around I found I was always worried about the bottom dropping out. But also because the tray has a glass surface, there is a risk of shattered glass flying everywhere if it does fall out, not to mention a fallen army every where.<br />
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So for this new design I decided the bottom would be anchored to the frame, and I would actually be doing a scenic display tray.<br />
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So off to the local art store I went to find a suitable frame. There were a couple, but this is the one I liked best.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cWX-aei8nWg/U9bVzhR_csI/AAAAAAAACMU/NvtjLvOXcn8/s1600/2014-07-21%2B23.48.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cWX-aei8nWg/U9bVzhR_csI/AAAAAAAACMU/NvtjLvOXcn8/s1600/2014-07-21%2B23.48.55.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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I also picked up a wooden painting board. This is like a canvas, except it uses a light plywood for the painting. It has the distinct advantage of being in standard sizes that fit in the opening of standard picture frames, being very solidly built, square and true, and relatively inexpensive. Always check the fit before you take it home. Though the sizes are standard, it could be a little tight and you'll have to do some modification to the wooden canvass.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_bAnSj-z7dI/U9bVzfUZQMI/AAAAAAAACMQ/jk_CS2CB_Yg/s1600/2014-07-21%2B23.46.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_bAnSj-z7dI/U9bVzfUZQMI/AAAAAAAACMQ/jk_CS2CB_Yg/s1600/2014-07-21%2B23.46.29.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, I picked up some angle brackets and #8 x 1/2" wood screws from the local DIY store.<br />
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Before assembly, you first need to take the frame backer board, glass, wall hangars, and glazing points out of the frame. Save them for later as they are very handy, and if you don't texture the board, you can use them to act as a protective cover for any insert material you put inside, like army list, photos, ribbons/award certificates, artwork, etc. This frame had a nice thin sheet of plexi-glass, so it won't shatter in case it gets dropped. So I'm keeping it handy in my construction materials, and will likely use it to replace the glass of my original framed display tray, along with the improvements in design I've made to make it more sturdy.<br />
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Now that you've removed everything from the frame, insert the wooden canvas board into the opening. Centre it so as to ensure maximum strength, and avoid gaps in the display.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veLnsQ2zRQo/U9bV1Sg_vhI/AAAAAAAACMo/NVpFFTZgrNc/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.23.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veLnsQ2zRQo/U9bV1Sg_vhI/AAAAAAAACMo/NVpFFTZgrNc/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.23.31.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then locate the angle brackets spaced evenly around the frame so as to avoid any excess unsupported base, and to ensure a nice snug fit. Screw them in with the hardware, careful to not over tighten as these woods are usually softer and strip easily.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wvivB1frb3w/U9bWVjKX5dI/AAAAAAAACQo/pq6K2xoZnh8/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.23.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wvivB1frb3w/U9bWVjKX5dI/AAAAAAAACQo/pq6K2xoZnh8/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.23.46.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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When you are done, you should have a very sturdy carrying tray, upon which you can support your army confidently.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kxwbW50kkk8/U9bV2tnqhKI/AAAAAAAACM8/Vs_VbjDhIuI/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.24.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kxwbW50kkk8/U9bV2tnqhKI/AAAAAAAACM8/Vs_VbjDhIuI/s1600/2014-07-22%2B00.24.21.jpg" height="362" width="640" /></a></div>
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This tray is now ready for the next step.<br />
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As I mentioned earlier, at this point you could just put the original black backer and plexi-glass face back on, and insert some artwork relevant to the army. However, I've already got a display tray like that, so this time I'm going to build up some terrain on the board that is thematic to my army!<br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-2-terrain.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display Tray - Part 2: Terrain Construction</a><br />
<a href="http://bonds-skin-instantly.blogspot.ca/2014/10/build-army-display-tray-part-3-painting.html" target="_blank">Build an Army Display Tray - Part 3: Painting</a><br />
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<b style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Links:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.astronomi-con.com/" target="_blank">Astronomi-con</a><br />
<a href="http://www.deserres.ca/en-CA/" target="_blank">Deserres Art Supply Store</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-47942590477962377312014-07-21T12:57:00.000-04:002014-07-21T12:57:01.388-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 8: An Inside Look<div class="MsoNormal">
Astronomi-con is in less than a week and I've hit the critical point where I had to decide what to do
in terms of armies.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Right now I could finish this army if I pull a lot of late
nights and force it, but I've decided I'm not going to force it because I'm
never happy when I do, and then I'll be grumpy going into the tournament, and I
just want to enjoy the experience.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So, while I didn't get the army done for this year's Astronomi-con Toronto, it's well on its way,
and it will be done this year, which was my ultimate goal anyway!<o:p></o:p></div>
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I'll keep posting updates here, but for now I'm focussing on
getting my backup plan into action. I have a few things to do for that, like
make the army list, make a new display board, fix some damaged minis and finish
off some work that I've put off on one or two units.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In the meantime, here are some progress shots of the Stormraven interior.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<o:p>Here's a pile of interior bits for the Stormraven and two Rhinos.</o:p></div>
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<o:p>Here they've been primed with Vallejo Surface Primer - Light Grey, then preshaded using Vallejo Surface Primer - Black. Over this I did a lot of light coats of Minitaire - Light Grey. These are thin coats so that the preshading shows through, to create the feel of depth on the panel lines and the corners and other details of the model. I added several layers of this colour, then finally did a very light layer of Minitaire - White to give it a little pop. I went with the light blue grey interior as it will create a nice contrast to the warmer golds and reds of the main army, both in colour and brightness. Plus, being brighter will help the interior details actually be more visible inside the unlit vehicles.</o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nhAJYKSJX-0/U8D3a-UAcmI/AAAAAAAACKU/d5nmHhXc6rk/s1600/Guts+Hanging+Out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nhAJYKSJX-0/U8D3a-UAcmI/AAAAAAAACKU/d5nmHhXc6rk/s1600/Guts+Hanging+Out.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next are a few pictures of some detail added to the Stormraven interior displays and controls. I've gone for a monochromatic green look on the screens, which his a traditional screen colour for 40K. Again this contrasts well with the gold and reds that will be used on the marines, plus it makes for some nice object source lighting on the interior. I've yet to pick out the panel buttons, and will also be adding a couple of other indicator lights here and there. These are still very much works in progress.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O-Tv_FrTX8A/U80zYe9vfmI/AAAAAAAACL0/WpCrAAnQLvg/s1600/2014-07-21+11.17.38+-+s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O-Tv_FrTX8A/U80zYe9vfmI/AAAAAAAACL0/WpCrAAnQLvg/s1600/2014-07-21+11.17.38+-+s.jpg" height="306" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KFN88lV90XM/U80zZkqcL8I/AAAAAAAACK8/B71PWng4FsU/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.05+-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KFN88lV90XM/U80zZkqcL8I/AAAAAAAACK8/B71PWng4FsU/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.05+-s.jpg" height="388" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GDHEFROEpX4/U80zaa9ZalI/AAAAAAAACLE/QiEgVY_jpE8/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.21+-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GDHEFROEpX4/U80zaa9ZalI/AAAAAAAACLE/QiEgVY_jpE8/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.21+-s.jpg" height="524" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next up is a Rhino interior.</div>
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Of course for consistency I'm using the same control panel colours throughout, adding monochromatic text and graphics on the radar screen as well as the information panels.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fp8XIwx-zyA/U80zc5lQXZI/AAAAAAAACLM/itFDg9U0RDY/s1600/2014-07-21+11.22.21+-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fp8XIwx-zyA/U80zc5lQXZI/AAAAAAAACLM/itFDg9U0RDY/s1600/2014-07-21+11.22.21+-s.jpg" height="472" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see here how bright the interior will be with the hatches open, to reveal the detail. If this were a darker colour, it wouldn't pop quite as much, and some of the detail wouldn't be as easily seen.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDuCzuchf2A/U80zePlZ2eI/AAAAAAAACLU/HoCbvgIXzDc/s1600/2014-07-21+11.21.18+-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TDuCzuchf2A/U80zePlZ2eI/AAAAAAAACLU/HoCbvgIXzDc/s1600/2014-07-21+11.21.18+-s.jpg" height="508" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ITUCLOw5ISY/U80zgfcrT-I/AAAAAAAACLc/G6HoiKvIK74/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.43+-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ITUCLOw5ISY/U80zgfcrT-I/AAAAAAAACLc/G6HoiKvIK74/s1600/2014-07-21+11.19.43+-s.jpg" height="492" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Both Rhinos are effectively the same, with minor variation in the screen details to reflect them being in different active locations, and with different crew, mission parameters, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I'll be cleaning up the stray paint strokes here and there. I'll also be adding more
colour with some different signal and button lights.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Also,
don't worry about the bright scorpion green splotches... that was due to a
dispensing accident where the paint nozzle had dried and, when I squeezed the bottle, it
exploded and got all over everything... Annoying, but as you can see, I've
already started doing some chipping. Those are areas where the green paint
splattered, so I'm starting there first, with focussed chipping, and then going
to add more with a more random sponging around the high traffic/use spots.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.astronomi-con.com/" target="_blank">Astronomi-Con</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-54335266943734043362014-06-30T19:48:00.000-04:002014-06-30T19:48:01.153-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 7: When Cows Fly<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 16.8pt;">As you may know, I’m working on my Minotaurs army to bring to Astronomi-con in July this year.
I’ve been worried about being unable to finish the army due to lack of time, so I’m attacking the rest of the build with gusto, and happy to
say that some more work is done!</span></div>
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That pile of boxes that I had sitting on my desk in a previous post (2 razorbacks, 2 tactical
squads, Sternguard squad, Storm Raven, Hekaton Aiakos Contemptor Dread, Chaplain
Enkomi, and Master Moloc) is now gone and has been mostly built. Everything is in sub-assemblies
ready for priming and painting interiors on the vehicles and hard to reach
places.<br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">The most recent thing that I’ve been working on is to convert the Stormraven
Gunship.<br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">I've always felt it's a diamond in the rough, and that with the correction of a
couple of poor design choices, it would look quite nice.<br />
<br />
Forgeworld have shown that it can definitely look really nice with some work. So I chose to make those corrections. As a challenge to myself, I've decided to
try to use as much of the kit as possible, with minimal bits from other kits.<br />
<br />
First, I had to correct the turret. This is, in my opinion, the worst problem
with this model. The turret has nothing in common with the Space Marine design
aesthetic, and looks like a wart on the top of the gunship.<br />
<br />
To correct his, I've converted it with two basic bits to make it look more
like a machine spirit controlled gun turret that is more in line with the
established Space Marine Aesthetic. I chopped the turret armour up, keeping the
front piece, and the axle covers intact. I glued this on to the top mounting
ring, which had the rear nub cut off. I then took the armour plate from a
Razorback turret, and mounted on the front.</span><br />
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</span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Etp95lrwxfE/U7HpFbqy4aI/AAAAAAAACJU/Y5xsTOJmLfk/s1600/Turret+-+Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Etp95lrwxfE/U7HpFbqy4aI/AAAAAAAACJU/Y5xsTOJmLfk/s1600/Turret+-+Side.jpg" height="462" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><br />
<br />
I got the Space Marine targeting bit from the Command Tank upgrade sprue,
cleaned off the rectangular nib on the top, and then glued it onto the servitor
hip joint on the bottom turret ring. With the lenses facing to the rear of the
turret.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;">Once dry I then just snap the top half onto the bottom half, with the axle in
between. This can be magnetized for easy swapping of weapons. I just need to
glue the weapons onto some brass or plastic rod, and can easily use every
turret combination.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c7YzMYsNSRY/U7HpF3fHjRI/AAAAAAAACJQ/-nuRvPIgkwA/s1600/Turret+-+Front+ISO.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c7YzMYsNSRY/U7HpF3fHjRI/AAAAAAAACJQ/-nuRvPIgkwA/s1600/Turret+-+Front+ISO.jpg" height="470" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 16.8pt;">I need to clean it up a bit, and remove the top nib, and am going to add some additional detail to the bottom to make it look finished on the interior. But so far I'm satisfied with it.</span></div>
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<br />
Next up... The air intake with tiny exhaust nozzle makes it look hunch backed,
and I think was added as an afterthought to try to hide the turret wart and
blend it with the tail, which is too stubby, and the design flow is defeated by the opposing rake of the lift
surface angles. So I will be eliminating the intake as a design element completely,
and then remodelling the tail.<br />
<br />
Here's a quick look at the gunship with the new turret.<br />
<br /><br />
</span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4JO0mhPz0A/U7HpEKJTp0I/AAAAAAAACJY/S34GLGUzuMo/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d4JO0mhPz0A/U7HpEKJTp0I/AAAAAAAACJY/S34GLGUzuMo/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+1.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><br /><br />
</span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JojpNNO6N28/U7HpET2WwSI/AAAAAAAACJM/nXIQxZ6vD9M/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="line-height: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JojpNNO6N28/U7HpET2WwSI/AAAAAAAACJM/nXIQxZ6vD9M/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+2.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-CA;"><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qUh8k902JS0/U7HpEcfQbGI/AAAAAAAACI8/xjJVv_VZs8g/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qUh8k902JS0/U7HpEcfQbGI/AAAAAAAACI8/xjJVv_VZs8g/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+3.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9pt; line-height: 16.8pt;">And finally a quick dry fit snap shot showing how the tail will finally be
positioned.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgvXJRAJOwM/U7H0E1eGrMI/AAAAAAAACJ0/0EvndwIs_S4/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgvXJRAJOwM/U7H0E1eGrMI/AAAAAAAACJ0/0EvndwIs_S4/s1600/Storm+Raven+Test+Fit+4.jpg" height="394" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I will need to do a bit of plasticard work and such to properly attach and
detail it, but in my opinion it's far superior.<br />
<br />
However, before I can do that, I actually have to paint the interior so that I can
finish the hull assembly, so off to the air brush next.<br />
<br />
Stay tuned!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.astronomi-con.com/" target="_blank">Astronomi-con</a><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">ForgeWorld</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a><br />
<br />Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-67869244301329419702014-06-04T00:23:00.001-04:002014-06-04T00:23:42.942-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 6: Rhino Bull Rush!Found a spare hour to build tonight, and decided to put together the two Rhinos from the Razorback kits.<br />
<br />
They are mostly assembled, with some components left off for ease of painting, and to paint the interiors. The Razorback turret for one is earmarked for another part of this army, and the other turret will probably be built for one of the Rhinos to be swappable and therefore can pull double duty. I'm thinking of a future razorback with assault cannons or some anti-armour guns, carrying a Devastator Squad...<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4TNhIRcguvM/U46a5fyXqPI/AAAAAAAACGA/BR5EwKWIbCo/s1600/2014-06-03+23.53.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4TNhIRcguvM/U46a5fyXqPI/AAAAAAAACGA/BR5EwKWIbCo/s1600/2014-06-03+23.53.36.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-55871380489069619932014-06-04T00:18:00.000-04:002014-06-04T00:18:10.810-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 5: Pile it On!Apparently I'm a sucker for punishment, and seem to thrive under pressure...either that or I'm an idiot, but I always seem to end up blitz painting my armies, usually with a very short amount of time before I plan to unveil them...so why should this be any exception?<br />
<br />
I've pretty much realised that now is the crunch time. I would prefer to finish this army in time for the big day, and avoid Plan B, which will also involve some additional work, so I've built a stack of stuff that I have to build to visualize the work ahead.<br />
<br />
Here's what I've yet to do.<br />
<br />
1 x Chapter Master Asterion Moloc<br />
1 x Stormraven<br />
2 x Razorback/Rhino<br />
1 x Command Squad made from the Sternguard squad<br />
1 x Tactical Squad made from all the stuff in the bits bin, which I'd clipped and sorted from last month's pile<br />
Plus loads of forgeworld bits on the top of the pile.<br />
<br />
This army is actually going to be quite compact.<br />
<br />
Hopefully I'll be able to get it finished on time for Astronomi-Con Toronto, on the last weekend of July.<br />
<br />
Here's a picture showing the pile of what I have to build. Wow. I actually just put a dent in my wall of product!<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ucfT-TDcLco/U41YBYN2kdI/AAAAAAAACFs/mOjCSZVEg7s/s1600/2014-06-03+00.44.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ucfT-TDcLco/U41YBYN2kdI/AAAAAAAACFs/mOjCSZVEg7s/s1600/2014-06-03+00.44.04.jpg" height="640" width="359" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
I haven't decided the order of the build, or painting, but I'll probably blitz build it all first, then get painting. Like I said. I hope I can get these done on time. But in case I don't, as mentioned above, I do have a Plan B!<br />
<br />
Wish me luck.<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.astronomi-con.com/" target="_blank">Astronomi-Con</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-52987777477286772342014-06-02T00:01:00.000-04:002014-06-02T00:01:00.328-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 4: Hekaton AiakosMay has been a busy month for me, but I've kept pushing.<br />
<br />
At the beginning of May, I knew my schedule would be very full, but with time ticking away, and all the other issues delaying me so much, I figure I'll have to step it up, working on multiple units, so that I can get it all together for detail work with time to spare before Astronomi-Con, which date had not yet been announced, so it was important to try to get more accomplished.<br />
<br />
My primary objective was to build and paint the contemptor, Hekaton Aiakos. As a secondary objective, I wanted to at least start to build the second tactical squad, though that's more a task for June.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-04R2M18jdew/U3GjSa5CKDI/AAAAAAAACDI/zi24ziBr6fs/s1600/2014-05-13+00.20.35+HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-04R2M18jdew/U3GjSa5CKDI/AAAAAAAACDI/zi24ziBr6fs/s1600/2014-05-13+00.20.35+HDR.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I will probably be blitz building the rest of the army for June as well since my deadline is looming, as they have announced the date for the last weekend of July. To complicate my life, I'm also trying to get the house ready for sale and may not be able to hobby much when we list it as I'll have most of that stuff packed away to show the house...<br />
<br />
Despite all that extra work, which really has interrupted my painting time (including commissions, which I've stopped taking for a few months now) I'm making progress. Slow but sure!<br />
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Here's Hekaton Aiakos in early paint. I'm still working on him, as this coat is only the first thin coat of gold, and there's more to do.<br />
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He's posed to be lunging forward with fist raised to punch something, and plasma cannon ripping off some shots.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qFzC5ru7sFg/U4s84bqyq_I/AAAAAAAACDk/hIbarqZ8hXo/s1600/2014-06-01+02.15.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qFzC5ru7sFg/U4s84bqyq_I/AAAAAAAACDk/hIbarqZ8hXo/s1600/2014-06-01+02.15.08.jpg" height="356" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm trying a different paint now, as I was hoping to speed up the process by using an airbrush to do the base coat. So I thought I would give the Minitaire Old Gold a try. It's got a more yellowy brass look, but I'm finding it's not as bright. Possibly because this is only the first coat, and it's on a white/black preshade primer. Notice where the white shows through it looks more blotchy, but it looks more solid where the black is prevalent.<br />
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Based on my trials, the Vallejo Liquid Gold covers the white undercoat well. This....not so much. Plus I find it's difficult to shoot through my airbrush. I think I may need to up-size the nozzle.<br />
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I'm happy to be making some progress. Just frustrated with how slow everything is going, and how many problems I've been having with this project. I haven't had this much difficulty painting a project due to paints since I first started painting...grr... makes me feel like a novice...<br />
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On a brighter side, I have also made progress with assembly, and finalizing my army list. I expect I can have the assembly mostly complete in a week or two, though the realities of life are making me look at plan B for my Astro Army.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.astronomi-con.com/" target="_blank">Astronomi-Con</a><br />
<a href="http://www.minitaire.com/" target="_blank">Minitaire Paints</a><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">Forgeworld</a><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a><br />
<a href="http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/" target="_blank">Vallejo Paints</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3932148462348486064.post-39299504895632742772014-06-01T13:01:00.000-04:002014-06-01T13:01:12.231-04:00Minotaurs Space Marines Part 3: Enkomi Incoming!Having lost a lot of time testing and playing with the Vallejo Liquid Gold, March was quickly coming, and to stay on target I had to stop that nonsense to get a move on Enkomi, who was still only in bits and pieces at the end of February.<br />
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To better paint Enkomi, I left the model unassembled, though I did spend an hour cleaning up flash, and mould lines, and making repairs.<br />
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Here you can see I finished priming, base coating, and a first highlight.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bL3bxG355PE/UzjaNiMOHeI/AAAAAAAACB4/pn4KcvorVTo/s1600/2014-03-30+22.45.06-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bL3bxG355PE/UzjaNiMOHeI/AAAAAAAACB4/pn4KcvorVTo/s1600/2014-03-30+22.45.06-1.jpg" height="440" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next came additional highlighting and shading, and picking out the detail.<br />
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Wow.<br />
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That day turned into a cluster F***<br />
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No sooner had I finished that portion of Enkomi.... then immediately lost his head. It took an hour to find, and when I was trying to take photos, he just wouldn't stay together. This, followed by a complete horde of computer problems and other technical issues made for a very frustrating day.<br />
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Oh. Did I mention he fell apart? Here's a picture of his wrist separating...and the bent spine on his Crozius from falling apart and falling to the floor. He's nearly complete, though I have plans to do more highlighting, and now repair the chips.<br />
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As I still hadn't decided on how I would be basing this army when I was working on him, I didn't do anything with the base yet. More on that later.<br />
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Painting shouldn't be this stressful...<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29aae1; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Links:</b></span><br />
<a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/" target="_new">Games Workshop</a><br />
<a href="http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/" target="_blank">Forge World</a>Hivemind aka Starminerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00684452292673661682noreply@blogger.com0